
I’ve heard the jokes and comments ad infinitum. Cheese has aromas: some of them strike us as unpleasant. Mostly, though, they are fragrances of fruit and nut and mushroom, of toast and chocolate and caramel.
But really cutting the cheese requires some thought and care. “French children,” writes food historian Margaret Visser in The Rituals of Dinner, “are carefully taught never to serve themselves by cutting off the point of a triangle of cheese: in something like a Camembert or Roquefort this would be to take the delicious centre for yourself, under the noses of the furious other guests.” That center is sometimes called the “heart of the cheese” and it is often prized by cheese aficionados. Visseroffers other cheese cutting and handling protocols: hand cheese to another person with a knife, except Gruyèreand cheddar. These latter two should be pierced with a fork, she writes, and then offered to the other person.
Some commonsense says that cutting hard or semi-hard cheeses goes easier when the cheeses have reached room temperature; softer cheeses cut easier when they are cool. The Cheese Lover’s Companion advises use of a “strong thread or unflavored dental floss” as a make-shift cheese wire for cutting chèvre.
Some of my most memorable experiences with cutting cheese have come as I have opened large wheels of cheddar or Parmigiano-Reggiano. The smallest of these wheels typically weigh 50-60 pounds. Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano weigh 95-105 pounds. I use large, two-handled knives that afford me pretty good leverage. I also use a couple of small wedges. With a cheese fork, I perforate the cheese wheel along the line I’m going to cut. Then I begin to roll the blade of a large knife into the body of the cheese, starting on one side and working the blade into the cheese toward the center. After making that cut about an inch and a half deep, I move the knife to the other side of the wheel and repeat the process from that direction. I force my wedges into the cheese through my knife cut and resume cutting on the side where I started. I usually reach a depth of about four inches through this alternating process.
Then with my largest knife, I work the blade into the center of the cheese and begin to drive it downward. About an inch later, I can feel the wheel start to give. I twist the knife handles with enough torque and firmness to encourage the cheese to open, and violá!
At that moment, the wheel opens like a flower blooming. Itdoesn’t crack; it unfolds. And the fragrance arises and tantalizes the nostrils with the fruity, rich, cheesy aroma. Cutting these wheels open can be a bit of a work-out, but the rewards are stunning.
At home, for serving your own cheeses, remember a few simple rules. First, wait to cut cheeses until you ready to serve them. Leave rinds on. Let your guests nibble around them or in some cases such as chèvre or Brie, let them eat the rind if they wish. Cut a cheese like manchego into thin wedges and fan the wedges onto a plate; most other cheeses that come in similar small wheels benefit from wedged-shape cutting too.